It used to be that you could go to Cafe Presse and get a $7 bowl of fairy-tale red tomato soup with two slabs of goat cheese floating on two slices of toasted baguette. Then tomatoes went out of season and Cafe Presse's menu changed, and everyone who loved the tomato soup had to imagine what the replacement, a $7 pureed mushroom-and-pear soup, would taste like. The imagination failed to come up with something that seemed good, and no one ordered it. Then one day someone ordered it and was shocked at how good it was, how salty and un-pear-like, how perfect for winter. It's served with a hard dollop of cold crème fraîche in the center that spreads outward, galaxy-like, as it gets warm.