Sleek, streamlined, and gleaming like a muscled Buick, West Seattle's Skylark presents an engaging atmosphere for everyone, even your fidgety ex-boyfriend. Watch his slow squirming while he contemplates, in a stilled appreciation, the delicious-smelling cheese-fog mist that rises up from a plate of mozzarella logs, hand-breaded, served with homemade marinara ($4). Buy him a happy-hour well or draft ($2.50) and note that his distracted writhing fades noticeably with each sip. Nighttime promises the enchantment of live music or karaoke; sit together in quiet enjoyment, and watch the light from a beautiful oyster-shell chandelier as it cascades upon his shining scalp. (Skylark, 3803 Delridge Way SW, 935-2111. Happy Hour Mon—Fri, with drink specials from 3—7 pm and reduced-priced food menu from 4—6 pm.)