Chef Doug Murray has put together an eclectic menu of sophisticated takes on American favorites, set in a surprisingly serene environment that's a cross between a cathedral and a fish tank. Don't be disappointed if you get seated in the back; you'll have the best view of the lofty ceiling, and as your eyes and mind wander you may fantasize about being able to swim up to the top, until hunger overtakes you and you get serious with the menu.
If you're jonesing for something fried to start your meal, skip the less-than-sublime shrimp and corn fritters and head straight to the cast-iron-skillet-seared potato pancakes ($9.95). These charming latkes were still sizzling when they arrived, filled with smoked salmon and chives and topped with caviar and crème fraîche. The menu hadn't promised the welcome addition of a huge heap of salad greens with tomato sauce-as-dressing around the edges. This starter was a perfect example of the chef's skill at upscaling homey classics while retaining their earthy appeal. The pancakes had a wonderfully chunky texture, while all the stuff around them lifted them beyond grandma's latkes without sending them out of orbit.
The chef used the same tactic for the grilled portobello mushroom and tofu napoleon ($12.95) but instead of upscaling a humble home food he gave a down-to-earth twist on an haute cuisine concept. A napoleon is a delicate dessert made of multiple layers of thin pastry. In Murray's tasty concoction the only thing left of a napoleon is the layering: A pillow of grilled tofu sat atop a stack of blackened onions, juicy portobellos, warm vinegared salad greens, and so-called "24 hour" tomatoes that have been slow-cooked overnight. The tomatoes were rich and sweet but still retained their acidity and form. All these flavor, texture, and color contrasts were held together with what looked like a Popsicle stick.
Another winner that sent me back for a repeat performance was the seared Idaho trout ($13.95). The tender fillet was pan-sautéed, then laid atop a pile of acorn squash hash flavored with a perfect complement of sweet and spicy cardamom and cumin. A butter sauce on top picks up the green glow of the toasted pumpkin seeds that are scattered on the plate, while reflecting the color of the string beans on the side. So good!
Our sweetheart waiter, Ken (we dubbed him "Ken Doll"), tried to steer us away from the seared scallop salad ($15.95), and we should have listened. The scallops didn't seem entirely fresh, and they were overcooked to toughness. Dull roasted potatoes and seasonal greens were on the plate--but where were the roasted beets, olives, and cooked red onions promised by the menu? The pork chops ($14.95) must have been grilled by the same cook, as they were also too well done, but their molasses-laced gravy atop mashed potatoes and spinach was hearty and good. For a simple, quick meal, the calzone ($10.95) more than sufficed. The crust was baked to a light crunchiness, and it enveloped fresh mushrooms and a pile of spinach that divided the mozzarella from the ricotta. The ricotta had a strong menthol flavor reminiscent of Vick's VapoRub--the result of some very fresh basil, thyme, and oregano.
They were out of chocolate crème brêlée, so we tried the deep-dish apple pie instead. The serving was gargantuan, but quantity couldn't substitute for quality. The heavy crust and monotonous filling made us come back another day for the crème brêlée. It was worth the return trip.
If you decide to stay after your meal and pay the price of admission, I offer this word of advice: Visit "Funk Blast" in the Artist's Journey section last. The "state-of-the-art motion platform technology" will not be kind on your stomach. I'd hate to see you lose your delicious meal, especially if I was sitting in front of you.
Turntable Restaurant at EMP
325 Fifth Ave N, 770-2777. Sun-Thurs 11 am-10 pm; Fri and Sat 11 am-11 pm. Full bar. $$
Price Scale (per entrée)
$ = $10 and under; $$ = $10-20; $$$ = $20 and up
