Vegetarians, get ready to get mad: Lecosho is all about the meat. The meat has a face, and it's right on the sandwich board outside the restaurant: The logo is a drawing of a pig, and not a very cute one, with a humpback of extra porkiness. "Lecosho" is the Salish word for pig.

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A a time when Michael Pollan is dictating that we "Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants," and even the Dionysian Mario Batali is promoting Meatless Mondays, Matt Janke's new venture feels a little retro, located firmly back in the artisan-carnivorous camp...