- Kelly O
As Bethany Jean Clement writes:
The Independent Pizzeria has a rotary phone (brrringgg!), a glowing old stereo receiver, jelly-jar glasses, and thrift-store dishware. The green vinyl couch has wagon-wheel armrests and a horse's-head appliqué. The menus are made of repurposed old book covers, spiral-bound. From certain seats, you can't read the blackboard with the short, smart beer list because of a pillar that's in the way; an overhang near the pizza oven has a bunch of boxes on top, a jumble of visible storage. But this makes it sound kitschy and/or cluttery, and it's not. The building is a lovely 1957 modernist oddity, and the walls are practically all windows, with some flagstone to keep it from floating away. The overall effect of the Independent Pizzeria's triangular room, with its tiny bar and itty-bitty open kitchen, is one of lightness and air.
In Georgetown, the spirit of the Independent would feel run-of-the-mill; on Capitol Hill, it would feel possibly disingenuous, market-researched and (almost) ready for replication. Set at the very end of Madison Street—where a wine bar unfortunately called Impromptu used to be—the Independent Pizzeria actually feels independent...
But is the pizza any good? (Hint: yes!) Read the whole thing here.