Ethan Stowell’s newest restaurant is where made-you-want-to-smash-things gift shop Tilden used to be on 15th, and it’s just beautiful: soaring ceilings, giant beams, worn brick. The neighborhood’s gone bananas for it, which means that if you want to stop in without a reservation and try the wood-fired Roman street pizza—which is golden-bubbled, sheened with olive oil, light and savory, and completely delicious—you should do so during weekday lunch, or else show up right at 5 p.m. or after 9ish to have a snowball’s chance in hell of getting a seat at the bar. Bonus: lots of inexpensive, interesting Italian wine by the glass. (401 15th Ave E, 838-2878, 11:30 am–2:30 pm and 5–11 pm, $14–$15)

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