The holy grail of chips and salsa has been located at Redwood on Capitol Hill. The chips are brought directly from the deep fryer, burning hot, plenty salty, with a squeeze of lime; they're entirely crispy, but they still have enough body that you know you're eating a tortilla. The salsa is pico de gallo–style, fresh and uncomplicated, made with organic tomatoes and onions and pickled jalapeños. Chips and salsa are not usually a thrill. These are shockingly, amazingly good. Your mouth will tell your brain that you're having a life-changing experience. (Redwood, 514 E Howell St, 329-1952. 4 pm–2 am, $4/$3 at happy hour, 21+.)

BETHANY JEAN CLEMENT