Duk Li does not make the best dim sum in Seattle—that you will find at Jade Garden and Monsoon (secret: The dumplings at the latter are made at the former). Also, the selection is somewhat limited, the fun of ordering from carts is supplanted by marking a menu checklist, and you're basically sitting in your neighbor's lap in the table-crammed storefront. But Duk Li's dim sum is fast, fresh, hot, and unbelievably cheap. Unbelievable cheapness may be Duk Li's cardinal virtue—if you can finish six bucks' worth of food here, you are a titan of appetite—but everything is also quite tasty. (Duk Li Dim Sum, 664 S Weller St, 340-6122, 7 am– 7 pm, cash only)

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