Why would you want a $14 fancy-pants version of what is already the best burger in town—one that sells for $2.50 at convenient restaurants all around the city at all hours of the day and night? Because Lunchbox Laboratory (in its new, huge, welcoming South Lake Union location) has somehow managed to replicate that Dick's-y deliciousness and then—using magic, brilliant culinary skills, and 10 slices of bacon—multiplied it by a billion. The homage is a soul-hugging luxury riff on a Seattle classic, with a side of tater tots. (Lunchbox Laboratory, 1253 Thomas St, 621-1090, 11 am–11 pm)

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