The Night Kitchen has the best key lime pie in all of Seattle. It's not that neon green Cool Whip bullshit. A Florida native, I'm told, makes the Night Kitchen's pie, and she makes it right. The pale yellow custard is wonderfully thick and velvety. The tart lime flavor bursts, only slightly sweetened by the thin, candylike graham- cracker crust. And you get a huge slice for only $5. Even at 4:00 a.m., if you want. It's a real pie and a real night kitchen. (The Night Kitchen, 216 Stewart St, 448-8810. 6 pm–9 am.)