When Donnell Jackson was 11 years old, he'd leave his playmates behind to watch his mother, Gertrude, cook dinner. When she—finally, exasperatedly—asked him why he wouldn't go play, he said: "So if my wife ever gets mad and tells me, 'I'm not cooking for you anymore,' I can say, 'Fine! I cook better for myself!'" In his mother's memory, Jackson—along with some family and friends—has opened Gert's, a barbecue truck on Rainier Avenue South. The pork is smoky-sweet, the potato salad is a creamy and pickly dream, and the proprietors couldn't be more gregarious and welcoming. (Gert's, 4801 Rainier Ave S parking lot on weekends, Seneca St and Boylston Ave parking lot on weekdays, 235-1318. Call for hours.)