Long ambivalent about Bloody Marys, I recently ventured into the Madrona mainstay St. Clouds and saw the Bloody light. Gone was the watery, spiked-V8 quality that hindered previous specimens, replaced by a hearty chilled stew of tomato, horseradish, coarse black pepper (like bits of braille on my tongue), and whatever else St. Clouds adds to make their Marys the stuff of dreams. Confirmation came from my dining mate, a lifelong Bloody Mary lover, who pronounced St. Clouds' "the best I've ever had." (St. Clouds, 1131 34th Ave, 726-1522. Weekend brunch 9 am–2 pm.)