It's wet, but it's not quite soup. It's light, but it's primal. It's alcoholic, but that's not why it's intoxicating. Manila clams steamed to succulence in pungent sake, garnished with shaved scallion and an eyelash-thin slice of ginger: an everyday delicacy. A clam in its shell is nature's ladle; the broth has been known to cure sexual malaise of all kinds. (Hana, 219 Broadway E, 328-1187. 11 am–10 pm, $5.99.)

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