(EATS) Where have you been all my life, El Gallito? Right around the damn corner, it turns out, but it took until last week for me to help myself to your plentiful delights. Top of the list: huge plates of good, gooey, and very reasonably priced Mexican food—guacamole enchiladas, a highly praised mole, generous margaritas—dished up in a clean, well-lighted, and friendly place. Screw Pike/Pine: Between El Gallito and the Twilight Exit, the Madison corridor is where it's at. (El Gallito, 1700 20th Ave, 329-8088.) DAVID SCHMADER