- Kelly O
- When the kitchen pays careful attention to every component of a dish—as it does with the grilled steelhead trout—the results are wonderful.
Seattle restaurant critics tend to speak about any project of husband and wife Vuong and Tricia Loc in a somewhat reverential tone. Perhaps it’s because Vuong, who trained at the Culinary Institute of America, is dedicated to French technique. Classic preparations have become increasingly rare in a city whose tastes have shifted toward chefs who combine disparate influences in casual settings (see: Asian-influenced everything served in hip, acoustically challenged environs).
Portage, the Locs’ beloved Queen Anne restaurant, which was open from 2006 to 2013, was hailed as a paragon of French cuisine and technique. And June, the Locs’ short-lived (and much-grieved) Vietnamese-oriented restaurant in Madrona, which opened in 2010 and lasted just 19 months, is still spoken about wistfully…
