Thierry Rautureau—aka the Chef in the Hat (what is under there, anyway?) of the defunct, superspendy Rover's and downtown's Loulay—runs Luc, a "French-American" bistro. The decor is fairly basic: dark red and yellow walls, dark wood booths and tables, a narrow bar area, some odd colorized-looking paintings of the Chef in the Hat as a child and his parents in their youth. The menu has lots of traditional favorites, but the food often errs on the overrich side, and the cooking can be hit-and-miss. Overall, Luc fails to knock the socks off.