Bush Garden has the strangest foyer in Seattle. Fantastical, dark, coiled tree branches dangle from the ceiling. An elaborate fountain that appears not to have seen water in many years is crossed by a tiny bridge—on its shore a dusty bonsai. Right by the front door is a dumpling-making room behind a pane of glass; it's eerily deserted and floury, like someone's made off with the dumpling maker for nefarious purposes.

The lounge at nearby China Gate is currently the favored place to go for karaoke in the International District, and its dilapidated, divey authenticity is not without its charms. However, it's sort of bare. The lounge at Bush Garden, by comparison, is a paragon of elegance, with its smoked mirrors and unmarred vinyl upholstery clashing beautifully with the elaborately carved pagoda roof over the bar. The last time I was on the premises late-night, State Representative Sharon Tomiko Santos (D) was in attendance with her husband Bob Santos (former HUD representative, housing activist, and "mayor" of the ID); she gave a very creditable and extremely poised rendition of Sade's "Smooth Operator," while he performed some Sinatra quite winningly.

Happy hour at Bush Garden is better yet. It's not too bright, not too dim; the temperature is always perfect; one of two completely wonderful, raspy-voiced bartendresses is always working. The unchanging bar menu is two-for-the-price-of-one, and a warm towel is brought to you in a little basket upon the ordering of food. Grilled bacon-wrapped shrimp ($4.75) in salty-sticky sauce is a reliable friend. Thin-skinned gyoza ($4.95) make a fine vehicle for their vinegary sauce (though whether they're actually made on premises in the dumpling room seems questionable). A krab California roll ($3.50) is also entirely palatable.

Caveats: The edamame ($3.50) can be weary. The lemongrass chicken ($4.75) is greasy and not especially lemongrassy. The gristle factor of sumiyaki beef short ribs ($5.75) equals inedibility for me; a friend, however, said, "I find these weirdly good, even though I know I shouldn't," and practically ate the plate.

People wander in who haven't been here for years, inquiring about whether Jojo still works here (yes, she'll be in tomorrow) and looking for a regular (who just happens to be anchoring the bar).

"These guys are looking for you," the bartendress relays.

"Do they have badges?" he replies.

Japanese Muzak tinkles over the sound system; the chairs have casters on them, the implication being that you should have to expend as little effort as possible while so ensconced.

A couple leaves, calling, "See ya, Suze," to the bartendress.

"Goodnight!" she says. "Love you guys!" â– 

Happy hour at Bush Garden (614 Maynard Ave S, 682-6830) is Mon–Fri, 5–6:30 pm; karaoke is nightly.