The Travesty of Dinner at the Space Needle
Do You Want More of What They're Serving at SkyCity?
courtesy of www.vintageSeattle.org
STILL BAD AFTER ALL THESE YEARS A photo from back in the day.
Tools
SkyCity at the Space Needle is one of the most expensive restaurants in Seattle. The average entrée price is $44.93—to spend this much on the ground, you'll have to get a menu degustation at Rover's or put on a tie and go to Canlis. The $17 fee to go to the top of the Space Needle is waived for SkyCity diners, but if you think you can have a drink and an appetizer and rotate around enjoying the view, you're wrong: There's a minimum food and beverage charge of $35 per guest.
The first bite of crab cake has a piece of shell in it. This piece of shell will prove to be the strongest connection to the sea the crab cake can muster. The crab in the crab cake is in threads; no semblance of lump meat has made it into the cake, only shreds. It has a mushy texture. It looks like canned cat food, if Fancy Feast had a flavor with flecks of red bell pepper in it. It tastes like damp bread.
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The crab cakes, two small ones, are lukewarm upon arrival, while some of the accompanying Wenatchee apple slaw is crunchy, some floppy. (The plate is hot, so the slaw under the crab cakes is inadvertently cooked. The plates are the only things that make it to the table hot.) Wenatchee is a place, not a kind of apple; many of the 90-million-plus boxes of apples produced in Washington's Yakima Valley every year spend some time in Wenatchee. The words "Wenatchee apple" hit a local/sustainable/organic note, while signifying very little. The crab cakes cost $17.
The Caesar salad is $9 (single digit!). It is of a familiar type: wetly white with salty, creamy dressing, strewn with indifferent croutons. Its acquaintance with lemon is distant, anchovy undetectable; if you replaced the thin slices of too-cold Parmesan with the pre-grated food-service variety, this Caesar would be at home at the Olive Garden.
The view—it's true—is amazing. If you haven't been up in the Space Needle recently (and if you live in Seattle, you haven't, because it costs $17), you've forgotten how our city looks in its entirety, the different-colored roofs and hidden sylvan courtyards of downtown, the neighborhoods stretching into the distance, the hills full of dollhouses, the toy ferries on the expanse of silver Sound, the mountains, the clouds. The mountains and the clouds: so beautiful, they seem artificial. This land is our land, and it is incredible, in the sense of difficult to completely believe.
What they do to a pork chop at SkyCity ought to be punishable by law. They start with "kurabuta" pork, or as the rest of the world spells it, kurobuta pork, which is purportedly cider-brined; this is difficult to detect after it's been cooked until gray and mealy and moistureless. If you've ever had kurobuta pork, or even just a good chop at a diner, this pork chop will cause grieving. It is barely warm; it sits in an unremittingly sweet pool of bourbon-maple sauce, sided with a mound of garlic mashed potatoes. Even the mashed potatoes are terrible—unrich, unsmooth, starch-tasting. A kitchen that can't be bothered to put enough butter and cream into mashed potatoes and then mash them enough is not trying. Next to them: a watery pile of string that is said to be roasted spaghetti squash. This is $39.
A trio of seafood was the least disappointing plate at SkyCity, being only two-thirds travesty. The scallops suffered a grilling that eradicated ocean-sweetness and tenderness, while grittiness was preserved; the wild salmon was also cooked very, very thoroughly, attaining a tinny taste. A couple of butterflied Gulf prawns, by contrast, were saved prior to desiccation—a rare instance of the kitchen knowing when to stop (or a random incidence?). The seafood trio's vegetables, however, included a brussels sprout so hard, a fork could only be introduced with the utmost effort: It was half vegetable, half rock. The two-thirds-travesty seafood trio with vegetable-rock costs $49.
This sounds like hyperbole, but it's not. Rolling around SkyCity's incredible view—the restaurant revolves 360 degrees every 47 minutes— while you eat a fancy dinner ought to be one of the best experiences of anyone's life. There are birthday parties, and children balance notes on the windowsill that circumnavigate and collect greetings ("Dear person reading, Hello! We are from Bellingham. Where are you from?" "RUSSIA." "Victoria." "Seattle—hi!"). The youngest, awkwardest couple ever sits gaping over a ribbon-tied gift bag and a bottle of sparkling cider in an ice bucket. A big group comes in, women and one girl—she looks around 11—with balloons and matching T-shirts. The shirts say "Make-A-Wish Foundation." This dinner at SkyCity is the thing this girl wants to do before she dies. She probably doesn't know how miraculous this dinner could taste, how much better this night of her life could be. She will be dazzled by the view, by the kind formality of the server, by the fog of the dry ice that pours over the table when she gets the famous Lunar Orbiter dessert, which besides the smoke and mirrors is a completely ordinary one-scoop ice cream sundae that costs $9.50. You sure as hell hope she doesn't know.
The Space Needle's restaurant has always been overpriced, and it has never been good, and everybody knows it. Its last review, 10 years ago in the Seattle Times, earned it "far from perfect." In 2009, according to Restaurants & Institutions, SkyCity's average diner spent $60, SkyCity served more than a quarter million meals, and SkyCity grossed $14.1 million. SkyCity doesn't care whether the food is good—they don't have to. It's not about the food, or the city, or anyone's dearest wish on this earth: It's about the money.
SkyCity's decor is corporate bland: The only thing that stands out is a large painting near the elevator that happens to be by Dale Chihuly. SkyCity's lengthy wine list is almost all Washington wines: Among the "Featured Space Needle Wines" are three with bottles featuring "a bold drawing by local artist, Dale Chihuly." The company that runs SkyCity and the Space Needle is the same one that wants to build the Chihuly museum that's been proposed for the Seattle Center near the Space Needle's base. Like the Space Needle, the Chihuly museum would be a for-profit business—one built on public land that the public would have to pay money to get into. The profits—like the profits of SkyCity—would go to the company that runs it, which is owned by the Wright family. Patriarch Jeffrey Wright has contributed more than $50,000 to conservative Republican candidates and causes over the past several years.
The restaurant at the Space Needle could be a marvel, a serious gourmet dining experience with the world's best view for the most special of special occasions—a source of civic pride. Instead, it's a rip-off and a joke, something the average Seattle citizen gets exactly nothing out of. We have no reason to believe the museum would be different. ![]()
Write your own damn review.
I also look forward to reading about political leanings of the owners of all restaurants that you write about in your future so-called food reviews.
"A perfect crust, too bad they support Ron Paul". "A splendid blend of spices but thethe owners mom is a devout Catholic and supports Anti Abortion candidates.
If you spent time around some farms, even the organic ones, you might be surprised by the range of political thoughts about zoning codes and environmental regulations.
I guess we can only eat fair trade grown brown rice after we check to see what charities and politics the owner supports, and make sure no one is present who is sick or dying... as they will become part of the column.
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the reviewer didn't make fun of the kid. the reviewer lamented that what should have been a remarkable experience was stunted by the poor food. i take my three kids there every year to celebrate the last day of school. the food is consistently underwhelming. the views are fantastic. my elementary school kids can already tell the difference between the food and the views.
as to the politics, i don't think it's out of bounds to point out that a restaurant would fail in the marketplace but for the public gift of location. and to also point out that the owners, ostensible champions of free and fair markets, now want an additional public subsidy to build another private institution that, but for the subsidy, would not be built.
read as such, it's a comment on hypocrisy, not on politics per se. as i recall, the Stranger rather likes to lampoon those engaged in such hypocrisy.
i specifically recall the Stranger covering, with wit, a dispute over fois gras. both sides were set forth, and my recollection is that both took some ribbing.
the Wright family, however, deserves quite a bit more, in their attempt to hijack another piece of the public space for the pursuit of private profit.
8
The point that most of you are missing is that just because it's a tourist attraction doesn't mean that the food must be garbage.
It's a wasted opportunity: imagine what it could be if the food was as good as Rovers or Lampreia or Lark and was paired with that view.
It's excellent criticism by BJC.
I have friends coming from out of town this summer & I was thinking of giving the needle another try (the last visits were 3+ years ago & I hoped for some improvement) This /could/ be an incredible place. I am glad I read your review to see they are on track for business as usual, and I will give my $ to a more worthy local establishment.
But I've no idea what those of you who love the food in the restaurant are thinking. This city has many great restaurants where the food is reaonably priced. You'd choose this? Seriously?
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Westin got out of there long before they were absorbed into the Starwood universe, and everything was consolidated back east at the old Sheraton headquarters. That was a merger from hell: The worst customs and managers of both companies combined into one banal operation.
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Read with caution and a critical eye.
Take your own advice and read with a critical eye. Bethany would have nagatively reviewed a banana split from the current enemy. I'm not defending the Nedle, I am crticizing the timing and the grudge of this article.
Also, their PR team are child rapists! They wouldn't say this about themselves, as I am not of it.
Dissent does not equate to paid-determinism.
kthx
I hope the little girl from Make A Wish had a lovely day and enjoyed the hell out of her dinner. I remember going to the Needle when I was 9 or 10 and thinking it was the most glamorous place on Earth.
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The article did not make fun of a terminally ill girl. It pointed out the tragedy of her wishing for a great meal in a place that serves crappy food at pornographic prices.
No, politics don't really belong in a food review.
You whine too much. Pull you head out of your ass.
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Seriously? If they are charging that much money for the food, it should be, you know, special. There's no reason they can't make great food there.
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But I do agree that The Stranger is acting like the polar opposite of Fox News with fear tactics and straw-man arguments. I don't like the idea of the Chihuly "Museum" at the Seattle Center either, but that shouldn't really be spilling over into a restaurant review.
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All you pinheads accusing the reviewer of "making fun" of the Make-A-Wish girl: WTF _EVER_ gave you that idea?? The reviewer, as someone stated above, is LAMENTING the fact that the food is so poor at this place, she is SAD for the girl that her big special Wish is going to come with some mediocre and sub-standard food, AT ASTRONOMICAL PRICES.
Seems like a fairly sympathetic point of view to me. And it's totally fair to point out that this restaurant is subsidized by Seattle citizens, and we get really nothing more than a good view from it, when we want to pony up the big bucks. And, oh yeah, those bucks are going into Republican pockets, and the owner of those pockets is now seeking YET ANOTHER Seattle-citizenry-subsidy for YET ANOTHER private-enterprise-on-public-land, that will benefit NO ONE but the owner of said pockets.
Seems like a pretty legitimate point to make.
And yeah, isn't it funny how the 'Defenders of the Needle', who have never been to this site before, suddenly appear in droves to defend (w/terrible spelling, grammar, and punctuation) the food, the family, the pending glass 'museum' project.....
Things that make you say 'hhmmmm'.....
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Here's my perception, this is coming from someone that has been a professional cook for some time now. Any restaurant this big is gonna suck. The food is not cooked to ordered, but precooked and held in warmers until you finish that soggy ceaser salad. How do you think a chicken and a salmon get to your table three minutes after you finish your appetizers?
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Hey, maybe that's what SkyCity needs - an appearance on 'Kitchen Nightmares'. Oh my stars, that would be fantabulous, get Chef Ramsay up in there to kick some serious ass.....
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...and, honestly? Isn't the political discourse meant to tie this review into current events? This isn't a food review, it's really not even in the "food" section....it's a featured article that addresses relevant local politics whilst also entertaining with hilarious descriptions of sad-looking food.
I totally agree with BJC on her assessment of both SkyCity and the potential Chihuly exhibit thing. However, I think most locals already know that the food at SkyCity sucks and is overpriced, and the public response to the City Council by mail and phone has shown that most people don't support the Chihuly proposal. An actual review of a real restaurant would have been better. This piece just reads like propaganda.
as for the political comments...its the STRANGER you are reading, Duh!
W
We got there, had snotty, terrible service, and were unceremoniously served two cremated blocks that were supposedly once salmon. I'm guessing in another century. Cost per plate: $49.
I can't emphasize enough how bad the salmon was. Not only was it farmed Atlantic, it was so overcooked it was closer to cardboard than it was to food. The veggies were limp from overcooking.
Our awful server disappeared after the plates were dumped in front of us. He never came back. I think he had a busser drop the check. We were there late, so they turned up the air conditioning to try to freeze us out, then finally turned on all the lights and stopped the rotation. We had to walk around the restaurant to find the elevator down.
It's not as bad as everyone is saying. It's substantially worse.
I will throw down (and regularly do) for a great steak at the Met, or some fantastic fresh wild Alaskan Yukon River salmon. Eating at the Space Needle is worse than lighting your money on fire. You can get a much better meal and better service at Dick's Deluxe. Then drive to Kelly park and enjoy the view for free. If you want something special, go to Canlis.
I take out of town guests to the Columbia Tower if they want to see the view. And if you really want to eat while high in the sky, get a membership to the Columbia Tower Club or find a friend who has one. Food isn't fantastic, but it's worlds better than the Space Needle.
(Nice try, though, owners!)
I know this is a trivial point (believe me...), but what the fuck is it with kurobuta on the menus around here? Is it something in the lower Queen Anne air?
Just recently there was a review of Toulouse Petit here, and I commented that their breakfast menu featured "kurobota"... I just double-checked it now (http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/ABPub/2…) and found that their menu has both kurobota and kurubota on it.
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It's understandable to be underwhelmed by the food at Sky City. It sucks ** FOR THE PRICE **, but the experience is unparalleled. 9 out of 10 diners at the needle probably enjoyed their time eating there, and most will come back again. When I ate there, I thought it was really good. They don't advertise it as "affordable".
I personally am getting sick of the Stranger cramming their politics into every nook and cranny they can squeeze it into.It's getting old and it takes away credibility. Especially for a damn food review. Ms. Clement, you should be ashamed of yourself. It's quite clear you will show bias and prejudice to an establishment that doesn't share in your politics.
That's as sh*tty as the Sky City crab cakes.
Never been to Space Needle. Whenever I visit Seattle I have a perfectly great time wandering around neighborhoods, visiting local cafes (LOCAL, not Starbucks-it's not local anymore), meeting interesting locals which Seattle is full of, and eating enjoyable, unpretentious food at local eaterys that fit my student budget. If I want a view, there's mountains around the city. They're pretty tall. And I can just bring a good bottle of wine, drink out of the bottle, and spin around with my hands in the air! It's great fun, the tourist board shoulc promote that more, and it's much less expensive.
At least in St. Louis, by the Arch they have a McDonalds in an old steamboat. Sure, the food sucks but you know what to expect, it's unpretentious.
Why is SkyCity so damn expensive anyway? If they wanted some cred, they could just lower their prices and still the controversy, seems to me.
66
And, on a side note, as someone who tries to put her money where her politics are, I appreciate knowing where the money I am giving a business ultimately goes.
67
I don't like Chihuly, but a glass museum could potentially be a nice addition to the center. A museum run like SkyCity would be a travesty. They have the most plum location in all of Seattle and have run the restaurant into a tourist trap. Why should we let them manage another institution?
71
The Stranger can be snarky and over-the-top, but it isn't inaccurate to point out that SkyCity serves crappy overpriced food.
As for the political side of things, The Stranger is just doing what they do. Although the concept of bringing politics into a discussion about food seems off-kilter, it's extremely relevant. If they don't bring this stuff up, who will? The Wright Family cannot continue pulling this crap off in our fair city. The proposed Chihuly Museum would essentially be a visual SkyCity. Don't listen to the astroturfers, make up your own mind and help defend Seattle from this corporate beast.
I also look forward to reading about political leanings of the owners of all restaurants that you write about in your future so-called food reviews.
"A perfect crust, too bad they support Ron Paul". "A splendid blend of spices but thethe owners mom is a devout Catholic and supports Anti Abortion candidates.
If you spent time around some farms, even the organic ones, you might be surprised by the range of political thoughts about zoning codes and environmental regulations.
I guess we can only eat fair trade grown brown rice after we check to see what charities and politics the owner supports, and make sure no one is present who is sick or dying... as they will become part of the column.
You're right----I'd be better off spending that much at Canlis.
Sad.
NO to Chihuly at the Needle
and
Anybody but Chihuly at the Needle
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But to those who say it's so "great for the tourists," my relatives came here last year and were looking forward to lunch there, but it had become far too expensive for them. So we went to Ivar's instead. Great service, great food.
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http://lightandair.wordpress.com/
I used to work up there too; during the Century 21 World Exposition. I left after being promoted to Captain. The food has been mediocre from Day 1. But then most of Seattle Cuisine hasn't been impressive either. The dilliante pricing of Seattle's food industry is why I don't dine out. When I want slop I cook my own for a helluva lot less than some effete money-grubbing tourist trap. However, masochist that I am, I plan to visit The Space Needle Restaurant (a.k.a., SkyCity) on 21 April 2010 for an anniversary of sorts. I'll be the old fart with the "62 Club" pin.
Bethany sounds like a jaded local with a stick up her ass. Go enjoy lunch and the views.
In the beginning, when the Space Needle opened 1962, Needle served the finest food in Seattle.
My top five El Gaucho, Top of the Town at the Sorento, 13 Coins & The Golden Lion in the Olympic Hotel. Canlis was and still is the ultimate. Give me the Canlis Salad, Lobster Tail & New York Steak, Strawberries Devonshire and a Coffee Diablo. In an elegant setting and of course a bottle of Blanc de Blanc Wine. Priceless...
I am grateful that I lived when the finest food in Seattle was affordable.
Time changes everything. Today the chef looses his job if he cant make a high % of profit on every item. Like crab cakes is the substitute for fresh dungeness crab legs on ice. The true flavor is destroyed with spices and using artifical crab.
I have not patronized the Needle for years, mainly because of reading negative reviews, but also becoming complacent with another favorite more casual setting, The 13 Coins. Through tough times like the economics in the early 80's they have survived and have maintained the quality standards they set when they opened in the Mid 60's
In the 60's & 70's we entertained business and family on regular basis. Having six children the 10th birthday was a family occasion at the Space Needle. Today is a granddaughters 10 birthday. As a test I will let her look at the Space Needle menu, and evaluate the prices and decide where she would like celebrate her 10th celebration. Her mother remembers hers especially the lunar orbiter.
I will let you know here choice, weather it be a trip to the Space Needle or one of her favorites, Outback, Olive Garden, Patty's Egg Nest, Subway. The menu will be a factor in her decision.
The Space Needle is certainly worth the price of admission, a memory that will last a life time. A pleasant place to spend quality time with family or friends. Two hours of sheer entertainment, a view that is a wonder of the world. If you miss the view of the Space Needle, you chose to lose, your choice.










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