What's Odd About Oddfellows
There's Room for Improvement at Capitol Hill's New Favorite Place
Lucas Draper
DAY AND NIGHT Coffee, cupcakes, and cocktails are a few things they do right.
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Let's start with what Oddfellows is doing right. The space—a giant, high-ceilinged room in Odd Fellows Hall on Capitol Hill—is great. Linda Derschang (Linda's, King's Hardware, the Rob Roy, Smith) has done a pretty much perfect vintage-salvage interior: scarred wooden floors, exposed brick wall, jars of pickled things on shelves, stern photos of old-timey people (including the building's founding fraternal order). There is an American flag so awesomely antique, it might as well be the one that inspired Francis Scott Key; there is a chalkboard that raises and lowers by an ingeniously simple mechanism. The room has great bones—the beams alone inspire joy—and so much airspace that spirits are automatically lifted.
Derschang and her partner, Ericka Burke of the Volunteer Park Cafe, modeled Oddfellows on nearby Cafe Presse: a place to meet, hang out, and eat and drink at reasonable prices both day and night. Seating includes long tables with benches, pews with tables for two (the other seat being adorably old-timey but rather hard on the spine), swivel stools at the counter. During the day, light floods in from the wall of windows, service is order-at-the-register, and the whole neighborhood is here. You might see the guy from Bailey/Coy Books reading, Pike Street Fish Fry's Michael Hebb having a meeting, or The Stranger's publisher drinking coffee (the office is a block away). It's loud and happy, like an ideal dining hall; it begs for a food fight. At night, it's still loud and still happy, and it's the right place for pretty much everyone. One evening recently, a group with many tattoos drank cans of Schlitz, a girls' night out had champagne cocktails, and a couple on a date prayed before eating, all within a few tables of each other.
Stranger Personals
Given all this greatness (plus the proximity to the office), I want very much to love Oddfellows without qualms. The unfortunate thing is, I can't find anything that's great to eat there. It's not for want of trying: I've had more than two-thirds of what's on the menu over the two and a half months since it opened. Some things have been fine: The rotisserie chicken ($15) had peppery-crisp skin and moist meat, with unobjectionable mashed potatoes and simple sautéed greens. It was good. Also good, and slightly more exciting: crispy pork nuggets ($6). You expect pieces of meat à la chicken nuggets, but the texture is meatbally—it's pulled pork, lightly breaded and deep-fried. With a sweet-spicy dipping sauce, it's a tasty snack. Sandwiches are served at lunch and at night, and three out of four I've tried were completely adequate (not counting a panini special, which had stringy prosciutto and too much goat cheese). The Oddfellow was grilled and salty and Reuben-ish with its rye bread, salami, coppa, Gruyère, and pickled red onion ($8). A basic barbecue pulled pork sandwich: portion on the small side, sauce on the sweet side ($8). The French dip ($8) featured tender meat and an oddly thick jus. In the most-improved category: mac and cheese ($6), on the dry/bland side in its initial incarnation, now a nice little dish of campanelle (cute bell-shaped pasta with ruffled edges) with a creamy, smoky- flavored sauce. These dishes are all entirely acceptable, but not especially compelling; I want something (ideally, plural somethings) that I'll think about later and go back specifically for.
The dishes that I've tried that are not so good are indicative of a kitchen that can't handle the basics or (more charitably, though it doesn't help the diner much) is wildly inconsistent. Simple vinaigrettes have been so oily, they coat your lips with a sheen; one dressing, on the "simple green salad" ($6), was so salty as to be inedible. When I had the chicken panzanella salad ($9), the proportions were crazy: barely any chicken and way too much bacon. Too much bacon! Who knew it was possible? Bacon was left behind. An order of fries ($6) was thick and mealy, their special sauce too sweet. Beef stew ($12) was on the salty side, without depth or nuance, the meat less than tender. A gigantic, gorgeous braised pork shank ($14) had little flavor at all, and its lentils were al dente. In the shepherd's pie ($10), the little bits of carrot and celery and onion were also undercooked, kind of comically crunchy—and the ground beef seemed unspiced. The chicken salad in a sandwich ($7) was unbelievably mayonnaisey, even for a fan of mayonnaise.
Unhappily, I could go on, but you get the idea: cooking that's often
out of balance and occasionally completely off the rails. Oddfellows'
menu isn't rocket science, and it's the same kind of contemporary
comfort food that's earned Burke praise at the Volunteer Park Cafe. She
and Derschang have the right place and the right idea; now they just
have to get what's on the plates right. ![]()
Write your own damned review.
Oddfellows, I want to love you!!!!!
big ups to linda d. for her comment as that just shows some serious professionalism and class. thanks.
i love the feel of the place though and will give it time to get the basics right. i'm sure the hipsters behind the counter are nice, i'm just not sure they are cooks.
I am curious to see how that space would work as a restaurant.
Good points.
\\Perhaps she should come over on thw 21st also and have a little laugh as well.
I keep checking in and fully expect to be as delighted with the food as I am with the awesome group of folks who work and eat there.
I'll keep going back, even with so-so sandwiches.
and linda, i thought your response was great and graceful, and the knowledge that you're really on the case will bring me back to try again.
(My grilled cheese was quite, quite tasty, although I did have to request it be heated a bit more on the panini grill, which I guess proves the points made in this article.)
It'd be nice if for once the Stranger just came out and said, "hey, sorry your band sucks. Your art show is pretty irrelevant, and you know what your restaurant concept/execution is frankly banal with it's chicken salads, and throwback sandwiches and even then you can't really seem to get those right."
I guess this is why I am not a critic anywhere
Linda is going to comment on a public forum and diss the food that her BUSINESS PARTNER is obviously accredited with without so much as a diplomatic tone, eg.: "I have worked very hard to create a wonderful neighborhood cafe...", "We've hit it right with the interior...", "We also have a great group of people working..."
Nothing there indicates that she isn't shoving Ericka under the bus.
If it really was just a problem with the food, don't you think there would be some backlash at VPC? Perhaps Linda's ego and overall lack of objectivity is where to look.
There's a lack of sensitivity and probably an error in judgement by pairing with someone she thought could help her succeed combined with a sense of entitlement that we can all taste in the food. It's opportunistic on both of their parts and its backfiring without any clear definition except for the concise criticism that Bethany is going for.
You can't manufacture the passion it takes to create good food, especially what Burke does. "Home cooking" sounds nice but is very subjective. Linda's prices, image and monopoly are direct negators of the concept.
This is a small town and people expect things handed to them on a platter on one hand, but on the other, they are sick and tired of being taken by gimmicks. Linda can't have it both ways.
I'm not necessarily defending Burke either but this place has been open, what... 4 months!?!? Who cares? It takes most serious businesses decades to establish a location. What the hell is wrong with Seattle that we think we deserve instant gratification for every appropriated venue, whether it's an historic, beautifully renovated spot or a tragic ground floor condo squat with a famous name attached?
My opinion, and its just that, Linda needs a hobby and that means not commenting off the cuff on a blog, or replying to Yelpers in a nasty tone.
"My goal is to make changes and improvements on the food every day. I appreciate all the feedback. Bear with us." Well, you could start by understanding what it takes to put your heart and soul into the food or at least put your heart and soul into having faith in the people you chose to go into business with.
Umm learn how to cook? Learn how to cook for a hundred? Maybe wait tables a few days a week? Regain some humility? Maybe open a business anonymously next time so you don't have so many slackers trying to ride your coattails? Just a thought. Oh yeah, and welcome to the internet.
You can bet, I'll be back. I'm getting the fish tacos next time!
when are the fashionable fanny packs coming back in branded by the "rustic" logo?
The must haves of the year!
Good simple food, at decent prices.
Give people a base menu of simple preparations, correctly done, at a decent price.
Diners don't want to be educated with every course.
Diners also probably don't want "Your Special Version" of like Mac & Cheese or Meatloaf.
And please give us a little more bang for our buck. Many of your sandwiches and entrees need a little side to even up the flavors and create a sense of fullness...a little scoop of coleslaw or potato salad or a green veggie or a piece of bread. It doesn't have to be a LARGE serving but just enough to satisfy the palate and soothe our guilty conscience that we don't eat enough veg or grain. (The same is true for Smith as well). Add a scoop of cole slaw and a piece of corn bread to a barbecued meat or some asparagus spears to that steak, (a friend of mine paid $15.95 for the steak at Oddfellows and was a little chagrined to get a tiny, tiny piece of ok meat and a small onion blossom on a large plate...all you need to do is add a yam and a piece of bread and it would have been great!)
Note: I am not a "big" eater and I'm usually appalled by the enormous servings at the big chains...I'm not saying you need to go that route, just punch up the plate a little...
1. Linda has nailed the space. I cannot think of a better communal space in Seattle to congregate with friends or just work quietly by oneself. Executing space that conveys great ambiance/feeling is the more difficult of the two tasks (space and food). Simply put, Oddfellows space is transcendental. And this will go a long way to getting people to come in.
2. Its true the front of house staff is stellar. They are professional, intuitive, pleasant and even with sub par food are willing to go the distance to make people feel very well taken care of. On numerous occasions they have accommodated for the dissatisfaction with the food and do so in an unassuming, 'we get it' manner.
So in a sense, Oddfellows is 2/3 the way to being a hit. The problems with the food are part conceptual, part execution and just almost no attention to detail. But these things can be fixed and with Linda's commitment which is attested by the comment above, I'm sure in time things will be different.
The onion sandwich is pretty good, but not as good as the same sandwich on the menu at smith...go figure. The portions are measly.
I haven't given up yet, linda, but I may avoid spending thirty more dollars on enough food at oddfellows to fill me up until I hear good things...from the stranger, or from you, or from anyone...
I also had those pork nugget things, so I had to filter my thoughts on the bacon in the salad through the reality that I had already had a pork product, so maybe I was overporked.
In any case, I don't think that recipe is inherently bad. Maybe just needs a little tweaking.
I also had a gnocchi special at Odd Fellows another time that I thought was really good and a great value at like $11.
The other people in my party last night didn't seem to have a problem with the food either. The mac and cheese was good. So were the greens. The french dip sandwich that the guy at the next table was eating looked good (I almost ordered that). The plate of meat and cheese he and his wife were sharing looked good too.
All this is just to say that I think they will get it dialed in. VPGC didn't have every kink worked out in the first month or two either. I know this, because I live a few blocks from there and so pretty much have been going there since day 1.
Odd Fellows is a very high profile place. It didn't have much of a soft opening. And it seems like it's been getting slammed since pretty much the first day. It's also open pretty much every waking hour of the day and night. So there's not a lot of down time to step back and dial things in.
It's kind of the VPGC on steroids with a bar.
To be honest, Odd Fellows is my favorite place Linda has ever opened. I also like that everything is kind of $1 less than you expect it to be and the portion is bigger than you expect, as opposed to so many places where the portions are both small and overpriced.
I applaud Linda for her candor. It's useful to have the owner of a place acknowledge that more work needs to be done. I trust it will be done.
I don't think there's any need to think that she is somehow throwing Erika under the bus. The menu itself is not the problem. If there is a problem, it's in the execution. Ultimately, that's a team problem, not purely the fault of Erika, even if she is nominally in charge of the kitchen.
All of my friends and I agreed last night that Odd Fellows is like a Portland restaurant. And at least right now, that is pretty much the highest compliment I can give.
If you don't know what I mean by that, spend some time in Portland and you'll see what I mean.
It also has the perfect mix of attributes for these tough economic times: Comfortable, reasonable, but also kind of cool.
I'm willing to give them some slack in getting them all dialed in. Because the truth is that all my experiences eating there have been very pleasant and positive. Maybe I'd feel differently if the sandwiches were all $12 instead of $6-$10. But for that price and in that wonderful space, I'm good with it.
Moreover, if you're afraid to spend $8 on a sandwich and try this place based on something Bethany Jean Clement said, well, you have more faith in her judgment than I do. She seems to like Cafe Presse, which I've always found to be kind of a pretentious, small-portioned, overpriced, disappointment. I just don't feel comfortable in that place at all. So after a couple of visits I just gave up on it.
Different strokes for different folks I guess.
As far as the space at Oddfellows goes, i wish it had a bit less ye olde going on and maybe a touch of design. Linda has a great eye but it's abundantly clear from all of her interiors that she could use a bit of contemporary design to give her places a lift. I'm not talking about looking like Vessel or Veil .. maybe one rubber chair or one glossy bright colored something that is new.
Props to her for believing in Seattle and opening new places .. but maybe hire a bit of local talent to help with the interiors a touch
One additional comment: Linda, please do away with the awkward counter service during the day. It takes a long time to order, it's difficult to look over he menu, and it makes it harder to have a nice breakfast or lunch with friends. The counter service is the exact reason I quit going to VPC for breakfast or lunch.
I will particularly give Linda time to do it. She continues to invest in Capitol Hill, opening interesting and comfortable places that become assets to the neighborhood they are in. Oddfellows is already a great addition to the neighborhood and with a little time will be absolutely amazing.
i would say it is well worth the trip. beggars cant' be choosers.
Yes, we will!
When I visit VPC most every morning and Smith once in a while it's the people behind the counter who provide excellent service that keep me coming back. Most of the time I'm coming in for a great coffee and pastry and could care less about the rest of the food
With the economy in the shape it's in Linda and Ericka should be thanking their staff with a well deserved pay raise for the good ones and a hearty farewell to the bad ones. No crocodile tears no BS. Like I said before it's the people that keep me coming back!!
Some of these kitchens don't even use the recipes when prepping or label the sauces (who prepped what ie. no follow up). Maybe that sounds too corporate for the cool kids but yields inconsistent food. Hello?
1) People who do not know Linda, have never worked for Linda (or known anyone who has...), and have never entered in to a business partnership with Linda. (See: all positive comments.)
2)People who HAVE worked for Linda, or known someone who has. (See: sharp criticisms.)
3)People who currently work for Linda. (See: direct raves and recommendations, i.e. "I'll be back for fish tacos!!!!".
that is the most important food question facing thousands of eaters of import and little money
good luck to Linda and her Food & Drink Empire - but - none of them are queer enough for me
what is with that?
I've had the grilled cheese, it wasn't very warm, and tiny in comparison to the giant empty plate they serve it on, oh wait i'm lying there was a cornichon on the plate. Best grilled cheese by far is at Blue, cheaper, larger, and with 3, count them 3 dipping sauces.
I continue to be amazed by the people who have eaten at Oddfellows 10-20 times and have never really been satisfied. I understand giving a place a few chances, but 20 times?
These people are only eating at Oddfellows because a) Linda's name is attached to it and/or b) they feel the need to reaffirm how hip and scene they are.....I'm gonna guess it's both.
So,how's the slum lord biz? I read that you have lost 20 of your rental shanties to foreclosure auctions and have 40 more coming up soon. You are such a talented business person as well as being an ETHICAL, HONEST, caring guy. I am deeply saddened to hear of your current state of looserishness.
What not funny? Sarcastic? Really? Dude, it's irony which is an ironic form of humor.
On the other hand, on several occasions, when I have gone to the counter (before 4 PM) to order something, the person at the counter has immediately left to do some other task and not returned for some time. If a second showed up, they too acted as though perhaps I were not there. I realize that there is a lot do in order to run a restaurant, but this behavior seems very odd.
The waitstaff, who bring food, are either wondeful or seem to act as though they do not quite think that I am hip enough to be at their cafe. Is it just me, or what's up?
Ericka should thank her lucky stars she met Giovanni Perticone and was so clever to use all of us; his family... to get her skinny but around the map!
Has the Social Security Department contacted you for fraud deja?... Maybe this is the reason for the timely 'buy-out'???
Go figure!
Karma... everywhere you are going to be Ericka!
PS: Butt has 2 t's and yes, she has a nice one.
Sweetwater
Seriously though what's with that staff? One had a hic on her neck?!. I think I've never had to get up to get my own food and water before and watching it cool to room temp on the bar and the vacant look of the young staff (some are excellent mind you but you know who are you are if you are reading this) is infuriating. Again some of the staff are good but 1/2 bad staff can drag everyone else down at lightspeed. I'll go up the street for awhile....sorry!






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