The Stranger

What's being produced in the kitchen of chef Mark Fuller's new West Seattle venture gives your mind something to do along with your mouth. The cold cioppino ($12), for example, is a miracle of a summer soup: a crystal-clear tomato broth with a bit of basil oil and half-immersed morsels of Dungeness crab, shrimp, mussel, and halibut. How can something transparent be so flavorful and also so subtle? Why is this the perfect medium for seafood? Think it over; eat it up. (Spring Hill Restaurant and Bar, 4437 California Ave SW, 935-1075. 5:45 pm–midnight.) by Bethany Jean Clement

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