I often lament the fact that Seattle lacks a truly great New York delicatessen, a place where you can get pastrami sandwiches and knishes. But every time my friend Ben visits from Brooklyn, I’m reminded how the grass in Seattle really is greener.
My friend is obsessed with the city’s Vietnamese delis. On each trip, he works his way through not only various banh mi fillings, but also the many (often unlabeled) offerings that line the stainless-steel tables of delis across town: Styrofoam trays holding grilled meatballs; translucent, dumpling-like objects; and blocks of striped, brilliant-colored jellies—all wrapped tightly in cellophane, gleaming mysteriously under the fluorescent lights…

