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EVAN HUGHES

When I first started working as a restaurant server, I didn’t know much about wine. So once, during a slow shift, I decided to educate myself. I started paging through the three-ring binder we kept behind the bar, which was filled with wine information and tasting notes. A vocabulary of wine flavors and aromas included words such as “burned,” “horsey,” “kerosene,” “moldy,” “graphite,” “wet wool,” “sweaty,” and “wet dog.”

As someone who tries to avoid the tastes of wet dog and graphite, these descriptors didn’t seem helpful…

Angela Garbes began her food writing career as a freelancer for The Stranger in 2006, joined the staff in 2014, and is now freelancing once again amid writing books; Like a Mother: A Feminist Journey Through...