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If you’re near the southwest corner of Cal Anderson on a Saturday night, you might catch a whiff of the smoky aroma of charcoal-grilled beef. 

Follow that scent and you’ll find brothers Osiel and Reynaldo “Rey” Gastelum behind the grill of their taco stand, Tacos Cometa, serving Sinaloan-style carne asada tacos that you can’t find anywhere else in the city, heaped with chopped red onion, cabbage, and tomato salsa, and served with a cold wedge of cucumber.

Hungry regulars congregate beneath a white tent lit by string lights, as beef sizzles on the flat-top and Osiel deftly chops cooked meat on a wooden cutting board with a cleaver.

You might not know it, but those tacos are the end result of a decades-long journey that started with home cooking in Sinaloa, Mexico, with stops at some of the world’s most exclusive three-Michelin-starred restaurants along the way.

Julianne Bell is a staff culture writer for The Stranger, an Aries, and a proud AMC A-List member. She lives in Seattle with a tabby cat named Rhubarb and can usually be found knitting in a cafe somewhere.