Little Uncle in Capitol Hill. Courtesy of Little Uncle

In a city where Thai food is more popular than pizza, you can't swing a dead cat without hitting a purveyor of pad thai. But many places present anodyne, Americanized versions of Thai cuisine for the unadventurous palate. Here we've rounded up the unique Seattle gems distinct enough to stand out in a sea of pad see ew—the restaurants that specialize in the bold, funky flavors of authentic Northern Thai street food, the restaurants that don't succumb to "vanity spicing" (meaning they're not kidding around when you ask for five stars), and the ones that branch out with special dishes you won't find elsewhere.


Buddha Ruksa

Buddha Ruksa, you will be informed by a number of framed press clippings as you walk in the door, has a specialty, and that is its famous crack chicken (well, technically the menu has it as "crispy garlic chicken," but that's not what its legion of devoted fans call it). It's a sticky-sweet, smoky, crunchy, battered-and-glazed chicken dish laced with red chilies and shatteringly crisp fried basil leaves, and it's inspired a myriad of online threads with curious folks speculating as to what they put in it to make it so damn habit-forming. Is it tamarind? Fish sauce? The world may never know. Though the crack chicken is the clear standout, the rest of the food here is also solid.


Little Uncle

Chefs Wiley Frank and Poncharee Kounpungchart originally started Little Uncle as a walk-up counter (in the space that is now home to Westman's Bagel and Coffee). Now it's a bright, clean, no-frills sit-down restaurant just down the street, its lack of bells and whistles bespeaking a quiet confidence in the peerless quality of its street-style Thai food. Rarely is Thai food this impeccably executed: The sweet-tart tamarind pad thai with locally made tofu is charmingly served with little white paper packets of cane sugar, crushed peanuts, and roasted chilies so you can season your bowl to your preference, and it tastes fresh and alive rather than smothered in a syrupy, cloying sauce. To drink, there's house kombucha and fizzy hibiscus lime soda, iced QED espresso with condensed milk, and a self-serve dispenser with complimentary pandan tea, as well as cocktails, beer, and wine.


May Kitchen + Bar

The pure, primal delight of Thai food lies in the balance of flavors, that perfect harmony of sweet-spicy-sour-salty-bitter lighting up the pleasure center of your brain like a pinball machine. May Kitchen + Bar on Vashon Island takes that magic to another level with a beautiful bit of dinner theater—a tableside pad thai preparation where a server dresses your rice noodles before your eyes, asks you how you like yours, deftly flicks the corresponding amount of cane sugar, chili flakes, and crushed peanuts right onto your plate, and blends it all with lime juice and banana flowers (slender white tubular blossoms that create a puckeringly astringent sensation in your mouth). The whole thing is served wrapped in a banana leaf and with the fixings on the side, so you can adjust your own plate accordingly as you eat. It's so good, I could practically cry just thinking about it. The trip to Vashon is well worth it for this and various other pleasures on the menu.


Araya's Place

This establishment is completely vegan, but you won't be dwelling on the lack of anything while you're here. Instead, you'll be marveling over the abundance of diverse dishes on the menu, each more craveable than the last: crispy fried brussels sprouts, drunken mushrooms with spicy wide rice noodles, and a pineapple curry with chewy seitan, soft and fried tofu, and juicy pineapple chunks. The creamy, sweet, peanuty massaman curry with meltingly soft bananas is dreamy cold-weather comfort food, complete with roti to soak up the sauce. Gluttons, take note: There's a lunch buffet from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily, so you can gorge yourself on all the pad thai and tofu spring rolls you can handle.


Manao

Manao in Capitol Hill.

This casual Thai eatery features an open kitchen and operates cafeteria-style, with service at the counter. "Manao" means lime, and the white tiled walls feature splashy bright-green limes and text querying, "How ya like manao?" Their menu focuses on street-style eats, like crispy, fatty pad prik khing pork belly with snappy green beans in a red curry paste sauce and ground chicken larb with pandan leaf sticky rice. The selection of hot sauces and spices at each table, offered in lieu of a star system so you can "spice it how you like it," are a nice touch.


SOI

Right off the bat, this Capitol Hill Thai eatery from husband-and-wife team Gabe Wiborg and Yuie Helseth makes its intentions clear: The website calls it "a departure from your normal expectations of Thai food in Seattle," declaring, "We believe that Seattle deserves better Thai food and that folks are tired with the typical Thai food in Seattle." And let's be honest, who isn't a little fatigued by the dizzying surfeit of mediocre curries? The departure in this case comes from the restaurant's focus on the regional foods of Northeastern Thailand. Their signature dish is the delicious, belly-warming khao soi: a tangle of egg noodles in a puddle of rich, spicy-creamy coconut milk curry, topped with cilantro, lime, bean sprouts, onion, and a nest of crispy fried noodles.


Thai Tom

A longtime University District staple and student favorite, Thai Tom's cacophonous, fragrant open kitchen allows you to take in the sizzling, fast-paced dance of the chefs working over an open flame to the soundtrack of music from the early '00s and East Asian pop (if you're lucky enough to snag a spot in the pint-sized space, that is). Those blazing woks impart the elusive smoky sear (the "breath of the wok," the hallmark of a proper stir-fry) to Thai standards like drunken noodles, pad thai, and panang curry. Their spice levels pull no punches, and warnings abound—if you ask for five stars here, be ready to feel the heat.


Mai Thaiku

Bold flavors of Northern Thailand at Mai Thaiku in Greenwood/Phinney. Kelly O

This Greenwood/Phinney eatery makes authentic, unadulterated Thai food not diluted for the standard American palate, with all the bold, sharp, eye-wateringly hot flavors of Northern Thailand. The "gahp glam" menu of Thai-style drinking food features sai oua, house-made pork sausage served with cooling ginger slices, cabbage, and peanuts, and mieng kahm, an interactive appetizer that lets you bundle fresh ginger, lime, chilies, onions, peanuts, and toasted coconut into bai cha plu leaves. Meanwhile the "som tahm" menu includes no fewer than six different variations of papaya salad, a house specialty. Cool the burn with one of their medicinal, herbal cocktails (one with yohimbe is rumored to have libido-stirring properties).


Pestle Rock

This Ballard restaurant specializes in the fiery, pungent delicacies of the northeast Isan region of Thailand in a warm, colorful space with lots of wood and brick. Named after the grinding motion of a mortar and pestle blending chilies and herbs, Pestle Rock brings that same personal, hands-on touch to their food, encouraging diners to dig in with their hands, and dunk and mix their foods in a variety of fresh dipping sauces, accompaniments, and herbs to combine flavors as it's done in Isan. Everything, from the sai ua (homemade sausage) to the muu yaang (grilled wild boar collar) is made from mindfully chosen ingredients and marinated, spiced and/or condimented with care.