Longtime confidante and excellent typist Diane O'Campo and I went to La Tienda for lunch one grim, gray afternoon. (Yeah, we were hungry, but mostly we had two weeks' worth of juicy gossip to catch up on.) This new deli-style joint from the folks who brought Bandoleone and Tango to our city, which gasps for light and glimpses of skin, is a bright, warm space on Capitol Hill, and brings just what this block full of coffee shops and bakeries needs: a dreamy cheese selection (top-notch imported cheeses at $9-15 per pound--sigh), abundant deli salads to go, and house-made crusty loaves of bread, not to mention a fine wine selection (for which there is no corking fee!) and too-beautiful-to-eat dry goods.

The Caldo Verde ($6), which is the best realization of this classic Portuguese soup I've ever tasted, features abundant kale (not mushy or overcooked), chunks of russets with skins still on, and the perfect ratio of quality linguica sausage to balance out this most satisfying of soups (which even the "vegetarian" Miss O'Campo pronounced glorious, and kept dipping her little vegetarian spoon into).

Each salad we sampled (at approximately $8 per pound) delivered: Gorgonzola, bacon, and roasted potato salad provided obvious pleasure (how can one go wrong with this trinity?); and Moroccan carrot salad with mandarins and currants produced a small squeal of "Ooh, spicy!" from O'Campo, prompting me to dip into the apple-fennel salad, which provided a clean-tasting, cooling vinegar zing. To be honest, there probably isn't one untasty item in La Tienda. I dream about their Portuguese cornmeal-based bread ($4 loaf), but, in the words of my companion, "I've got to get out of here while I still have bus fare."

We agreed that La Tienda arouses feelings similar to those we share toward Toys in Babeland: I would like to try everything there, but at some point one has to put away the pocketbook and go to work. While it's not quite a restaurant, it's not quite deli-priced--lunch at La Tienda Cadiz doesn't require the commitment of fine dining, while it does encourage one to linger over some artsy, lovely dishes.

La Tienda Cadiz

350 15th Ave E, 267-0570. Store/deli open Mon-Fri 11 am-8 pm, Sat-Sun 10 am-8 pm. Café dining daily 5-10 pm.