1200 Bistro appeared in Sammie Sue's deserted place in the fall of 2001, and it could not be more different. You will not find home fries here. Chef Brian Twomey's menu consists of seasonal New American favorites, and 1200's full bar can hold its own with any Belltown selection. That sweet waiter from Sammie Sue's--the one who always seemed flustered, no matter how slow or busy he was--is long gone. 1200's servers are unflappable in their crisp white shirts (men) and svelte all-black ensembles (women), moving deftly, reciting specials in low, calm tones.
And while Lord knows the Pike/Pine corridor can always use more pork chops and scratch biscuits, I must admit that it's nice to see this place become such a hit with the neighborhood. (It's especially a hit with the gays. The first night I was there, my friend and I were the only women customers, and our waiter gushed and fawned over us, treating us like, um, queens.)
The term "neighborhood" is key here. 1200 Bistro nails the concept of neighborhood bistro-dining for those who want more than pho or a veggie burrito. There is nothing intimidating about 1200, but it's still lovely and grown-up and tastefully urban. Twomey's menu offers no surprises, no gimmicks--just seasonal, upscale comfort food (you'll find penne with smoked tomato sauce or a gorgonzola burger in the lounge; cassoulet or sweet-potato gnocchi in the dining room). Much like Septieme, El Greco, or La Spiga, 1200's success comes from its restraint.
I confess I sat down to dinner with a chip on my shoulder. I couldn't imagine that 1200's kitchen would move my soul like Sammie Sue's lunchtime crew; plus I was wary because of friends' mixed anecdotes (being ignored at the door, snooty attitude from a hostess). And yet, despite my cynicism, I went home reasonably happy.
Beef daube ($7) is a hearty teaser--basically a ladle of beef stew tucked into puff pastry, buttery flakes dissolving right into braised meat and rich gravy. And while it would make sense to move on to duck confit ($8) or a crab cake ($12), trust me and go with the avocado and beet Napoleon ($7): thin layers of roasted beets, avocados, and Oregon blue cheese, each component stacked artfully. The smooth nuttiness of the avocado and clean beet taste were perfect bookends for the robust, pungent blue cheese (caramelized onions provided a hint of slippery sweetness). I tried the warm wild mushroom salad twice ($8), and while the chanterelles, criminis, portobellos, and lobster mushrooms are impeccably fresh and the idea is luxurious, the decidedly underwhelming dish screams for salt and pepper, maybe a pat of butter to finish--something more than mild balsamic to bring out the mushrooms' earthy characteristics.
Muscovy duck ($21) with roasted fingerling potatoes and sautéed escarole was the perfect autumn food, the duck breast expertly seared and the greens seasoned right. My lamb special ($20) a few nights later was also tender and flavorful, despite slightly crossing over the medium-rare border to medium.
Grilled swordfish ($24) was succulent and simple, a perfect anchor for the pineapple salsa surrounding it; but the tepid, undercooked clump of coconut rice underneath was depressingly uninspired. Ahi tuna ($19) with soy-ginger beurre blanc, baby bok choy, and wasabi mashed potatoes is much more pleasing--the ahi prettily rare, the delicious wham! of wasabi creeping into your mouth after a few creamy spoonfuls of potatoes. Yeah, it's the Northwest pan-Asian cliché... but it works well here. Remember what I said earlier about no surprises?
1200 Bistro
1200 E Pike St (Capitol Hill), 320-1200. Dinner nightly
5-10 pm (Fri-Sat 11 pm).
