For lunch today at Fog贸n, I planned to get a chile relleno, which is my favorite thing to eat at a family-style Mexican place鈥攚ell, that and mole. Like everything at Fog贸n (the Mexi-pop soundtrack, the decor, the service), the chile relleno is better than usual: lighter batter, greener and firmer and more flavorful chile, cushy queso fresco instead of oozy Monterey Jack. Then I saw that they have chilaquiles at lunchtime, another favorite thing. And what do you know鈥攖hey were better than usual, with still-crisp house-made totopos, a smoky-tomato spice, and avocado on top. (Fog贸n, 600 E Pine St, 320-7777, 11 am鈥11 pm)