Show me someone who doesn’t like deep-fried food, and I’ll show you a liar. It may be (as the forces of evil are now apparently making Cookie Monster say about cookies) “a sometimes food,” but when sometimes is now, well, yay. Life should glisten more; life should be more golden.

That being said, it is usually wise to resist eating deep-fried goods at gas station mini-marts. However, I was at a gas station mini-mart in North Bend one morning recently, getting a cup of bad-but-necessary coffee, and I saw a man in the back lifting some round, golden items up from the depths of the deep-fryer. I lurked.

“What’re those?” I asked hopefully.

“Mushrooms,” he said. “Want to try one?”

Hell, yes, I did, time of day, location, appropriateness of pairing with coffee be damned. I held it in a napkin in my hand while I waited in line, my hot little secret. Then, just before I got to the register, I ate it. It was, tragically, still ice cold at its heartโ€”not a happy thing in a deep-fried food. It was, in a word, gross.

My stomach is ever optimistic, though, and it was on the lookout for something to supplant this memory when I happened to end up at the People’s Pub. (My last visit to this Ballard institution was also related to disappointment elsewhere. I’d gone to Pies & Pints and had a beef pie that was dryโ€”no one wants a dry pieโ€”so I drove immediately to the reliable satisfactions of the People’s Pub and ate again. The goulash soup ($5) that nightโ€”thick, paprika-colored, with chunks of beef and pieces of spรคtzle suspended in itโ€”would’ve made an excellent pie filling. Instead it was in a ceramic dish with a lid with a tiny vent hole, suggesting the exciting possibility of it being so hot it might explode.) I saw something on the menu I’d inexplicably missed so far, and that thing was deep-fried pickles ($6). Deep. Fried. Pickles.

Every seat in the bar of the People’s Pub was occupied by congenial types hoisting pints of German beer and eating, eating, and eating, so my pickles took a little while. Meanwhile I admired a flag (for a German soccer team, I guessed) depicting an extremely muscular rooster. He appeared to be glowering directly at me while feeling his immense bicep with a weird, feathered hand. My pickles were spearsโ€”for some reason I was expecting them to be wholeโ€”and they had that slightly rough batter coat that certain onion rings sport. The pickle spears were still crisp (but not cold!), and the aioli dip had large-grain mustard mixed in. A plate of these and a beer will erase any bad deep-fried foodโ€”or anything bad at all, reallyโ€”from your mind, at least temporarily. โ– 

The People’s Pub is at 5429 Ballard Ave NW, 783-6521. The People’s Pub website, www.peoplespub.com, is amazingly comprehensive.

bethany@thestranger.com