Burrito Express
12339 15th Ave NE, 364-0865
Open daily, 11 am-8 pm.
Many a Northgater has likely driven near the little yellow Burrito Express house on 15th Avenue NE, considered stopping in, then kept on going. There’s something about that name–it sounds more at home in a food court. But what’s wrong with a little truth in advertising? Fast takeout burritos are the specialty here, after all. Oh, and drinks: Burrito Express’ homemade Jamaica and horchata ($1.50) are both excellent. More sour/bitter than sweet, the ruby-colored Jamaica (brewed from hibiscus flowers) resembles a complicated, grown-up Kool-Aid, and sweet-freaks will love the milky-white horchata (made with rice and cinnamon), which goes down like a tall, cool glass of powdered sugar. As for the burritos, they come with rice, black beans, lettuce, Monterey jack, and a choice of hot sauces, plus the restaurant’s secret weapon: a fresh, medium-spicy pico de gallo (tomatoes, onions, peppers, cilantro) that can whup most others for sheer unabashed flavor. There’s a variety of exotic-sounding fillings available, too–BBQ beef brisket, pork or beef sirloin asado, fish “Española,” homemade chorizo, shrimp ceviche ($6.95)–but unfortunately only the shredded chicken or spicy beef options ($5.95) are worth the price. Which brings me to my gripe about this place. All the menu items–soft tacos, quesadillas, enchiladas–seem a tad too expensive, and only the burritos (and maybe the tostada salads) come in portions one could reasonably call a meal. Why so skimpy, Burrito Express? It’s not like you’re ladling gold into them thar tortillas! My dining buddy put it best: If you’re running a low-overhead takeout joint that serves simple food and is dependent on repeat business, the last thing you do is charge too much for too little. So please, Burrito Express, I beg you: Be generous to your customers. After all, they, like children, are your future.