Freedom Reigns
Line cook at the Palace Kitchen, 2001 Fifth Ave, 448-2001.
With a name like Freedom Reigns, you’d think his specialties would be bulgur and tofu, but he’s actually one of celeb-chef Tom Douglas’ most valuable employees, turning out splendid dishes at Douglas’ Palace Kitchen.
How did you start your career? “I started working at PCC when I was 16 and got involved with organic produce and cheeses. I worked in the deli, making bulk pastas and vegetarian terrines. My parents also owned a produce delivery company, so Mom was cooking a lot.”
What did your mom cook? “Actually a lot of meats–she’s German, so lots of stews and sausages.”
Then you went to Alaska? “Yeah, I went to work in a restaurant there when I was 19. I started off as a dishwasher and prep cook. I kept pushing myself because I didn’t want to keep dishwashing. Eventually I started cooking on the line and as a pantry cook, shucking oysters and making desserts. After that I moved to Colorado and started cooking a lot of meats on the grill–there’s not much fresh produce in Colorado. I learned to cook steak and chicken and frozen fish. When I moved to Seattle I started working at Café Sophie (now Avenue One) and that’s where I got the chance to pan-fry–crab cakes, fresh fish….”
You obviously love food. What is it you love about cooking? What gives you satisfaction? “Part of it is working a great restaurant like the Palace. I tell people where I work, and all I get is smiles; people often say it’s the best food they’ve ever had. There’s also the satisfaction of painting a plate, creating a picture with each element–this fish, the sauce, the vegetables….”
Do you have much opportunity to experiment, or are you generally following the head chef’s guidelines? “I do get that opportunity sometimes. A couple of weeks ago I made pork loin stuffed with rabbit pté. I just came in on my day off, made it, and it ended up on the menu.”
If you could cook a meal for any three musicians, who would they be and what would you make? “I’d love to cook for DJ Q-Bert, Mix Master Mike, and DJ Yoga Frog of the Invisibl Skratch Piklz. I’d make them sweetbreads and scallops wrapped in rice paper, pan-seared, with salmon caviar, spicy mustard-miso sauce, and grilled baby bok choy.”
Interview by Hannah Levin