What do the inhabitants of all midsize cities (Seattle, Denver, Atlanta) have in common? They have almost no resistance against the impulse to show a visitor from a big city a bar or restaurant that is (according to their estimation) just as cool, just as fancy, just as chic as the ones in the big city. I have done this. You have done this. We have all done this. Of course, the visitor caught in this sorry predicament is kind if he/she conceals his/her contempt, and unkind if he/she express it. But to be fair, you too have been in this situation. At one time or another, you visited a big city and were shown by your eager hosts a place or something that was easily enjoyed or gotten in your midsize city.

For example, in 2010, a couple of New Yorkers decided to amaze me with a new Thai restaurant that opened in their Chinatown. They insisted the experience would change my life. I tried and tried to suggest that a French or Italian restaurant might be the way to go. I even made up a sensitive stomach, one that’s easily troubled by the unfamiliar spices of Asian dishes. But this is what the New Yorkers kept thinking: He is from a small city and so is scared of the exotic delights of our big city. And this is what I kept thinking (and this thinking indeed proved to be true): No Thai restaurant in the Big Apple could compete with even those on the outskirts of Seattle.

These thoughts came to me soon after I entered Bathtub Gin & Co. from a door in an alley. It was exactly the kind of place I would show to a friend from New York. Its old brick walls, its cool basement area, its creaky furniture, its high ceilings, its lamps, its wood-rich bar, its black-and-white photographs, its intimacy, its respectable selection of cocktails and wine (I had an excellent drink called a Coup D’ร‰tat and a sound glass of Cรดtes du Rhรดne), its handsome and almost whispering urban types, its ’90s hiphop and triphop, its dark cornersโ€”how could a person from a big city not feel right at home in a place like this? A place that’s right in the middle of midsize Seattle? recommended

Charles Mudede—who writes about film, books, music, and his life in Rhodesia, Zimbabwe, the USA, and the UK for The Stranger—was born near a steel plant in Kwe Kwe, Zimbabwe. He has no memory...