Carnitas tacos and a prickly pear margarita, which is made with cactus flowers. Credit: COLIN BISHOP

Carnitas tacos and a prickly pear margarita, which is made with cactus flowers.

Carnitas tacos and a prickly pear margarita, which is made with cactus flowers. COLIN BISHOP

On a hill above Amazon, South Lake Union’s latest Mexican restaurant occasionally feels caughtโ€”like Seattle itselfโ€”in between two worlds.

First opened 1926, the single- story structure in which it’s housed has since been dwarfed by encroaching apartments and office towers. Other upstarts on Fairview Avenue North have plenty to offer in terms of square footage, but none hold a candle in terms of street cred or experience: this retro brick warehouse has operated continuously as a restaurant since 1943.

“We’re stewards of something that’s a part of history,” says Matt Greenup, one of four partners in El Grito. “That was exciting, especially in this neighborhood, where history’s getting knocked down every day.” Greenup is part of the ownership team behind nearby restaurant Re:public, along with Rory McCormick and Hannes Schindler, as well as Dan Olsby, formerly of the Parlor and Pesos. Each owns a stake in this new venture.