There’s nothing not to like about a latke. Any self-respecting french fry or potato chip will tell you that potatoes + fat = fjmvklwiurhefhohguis (that’s the sound of someone gobbling up an entire plate of french fries). What’s a latke? A latke is a potato pancake eaten during the celebration of Hanukkah, which begins on December 24 this year. More precisely, it’s grated potato and onion bound with egg and matzo meal and simply seasoned with salt and pepper. The batter is shaped into little hockey pucks and fried in plenty of oil until irresistibly bronzed and crispy. The best latkes have wild, unkempt edges, a tangled nest of crisped potato ribbons that contrast with the soft, warm center. A proper latke is topped with dollops of sour cream and applesauce. What’s that you say? You want to dip yours in ketchup? No. No no no no no. These are not hash browns, and I will not stand by and watch you treat them as such. Latkes are more than a greasy-spoon side dish. They have symbolism—they have a story.