Slim’s Wedge is especially tasty when eaten out on the patio.

Slim’s Wedge is especially tasty when eaten out on the patio. kelly o

When it comes to iceberg lettuce, I’m with James Beard. “I would like to say a few words in defense of iceberg lettuce,” the renowned American cookbook author once wrote, “a green that has been utterly damned by the food snobs in this country.” Yes, homely cabbage-like iceberg lacks the spicy thrill of arugula, the cachet of frisée, the heartiness of kale, the bitter crunch of endive, and the tenderness of green leaf. But when it comes to texture, these greens have got nothing on iceberg’s pure and beautiful crunch.

Iceberg lettuce was known as crisphead lettuce until the late 1920s, when Bruce Church had the idea to start shipping lettuce from Salinas, California, across the country…

Angela Garbes began her food writing career as a freelancer for The Stranger in 2006, joined the staff in 2014, and is now freelancing once again amid writing books; Like a Mother: A Feminist Journey Through...