Terrell Jackson with his wife, Rachel, and daughter, Raymiah. “It’s one big huge family affair,” says Terrell.

Terrell Jackson with his wife, Rachel, and daughter, Raymiah. “It’s one big huge family affair,” says Terrell. KELLY O

When Woodrow (“Woody”) Jackson and his wife, Rosemary (“Rosie”), first opened Catfish Corner in the Central District in 1985, it wasn’t entirely by choice. “I was a steelworker, but Bethlehem Steel shut down,” said Woody, who grew up fishing with his grandfather on the Louisiana bayou. “The only thing I knew how to do was fry catfish.” The Jacksons started holding fish fries in their backyard on Beacon Hill. They were so popular that the family moved the operation to the front yard. When a space on the corner of Cherry Street and Martin Luther King Jr. Way became available, just a few blocks from where Woody first lived when he moved to Seattle, he knew what he needed to do. “I told my wife, ‘Let me put the catfish in there.'”…

Angela Garbes began her food writing career as a freelancer for The Stranger in 2006, joined the staff in 2014, and is now freelancing once again amid writing books; Like a Mother: A Feminist Journey Through...