West Seattle may be crowded with pizza restaurants, but only one—with its New York-style slices and distinct hipster vibe—feels imported directly from Brooklyn. “I’ve always wanted to have a pizza place,” says chef-turned-restauranteur Mark Fuller of New Luck Toy and Ma’ono Fried Chicken & Whisky, just a few doors away. For his third neighborhood venture, Supreme, Fuller along with business-partner-and-wife Marjorie Chang Fuller tapped John Montenegro to run the kitchen.
“[John] knows the dough,” says Fuller of the veteran baker and pizza maker, citing an arrangement that works out for everybody because nowadays, at 47 years old, Fuller isn’t interested in working the line. “Cooking is hard,” he admits. Plus he’s thoroughly enjoying his pivot into the bar business which, in Supreme’s case, involved remaking the spot previously held by Pellegrini’s Italian Market into a loungy space complete with a long bar, booths, glowing beer signs, and pinball machines, while covering an existing ceiling mural with pizza chefs and imbibing cherubs. “I wanna have fun and pizza is fun,” Fuller explains. “Bars are fun. I’m just having a good time with it.”