I love these hand-shaved noodles, especially with a side of pickled cucumbers. Credit: JESSICA STEIN

I love these hand-shaved noodles, especially with a side of pickled cucumbers.

Seven Stars Pepper makes my favorite hand-shaved noodles. JESSICA STEIN

Dan dan noodles are traditionally considered a street food in China, but I’d eat this Szechuan dish anywhereโ€”here, there, in a box, with a fox, etc.

Normally, cooks pile the noodles on top of a spicy chili oil sauce laced with mouth-numbing Szechuan peppercorn oil (we’ll talk about the numbing in a second) and/or a peanut or sesame sauce. Minced pork, some kind of green from the mustard family, and scallions also make an appearance. And that’s it. Other Seattleites typically reach for pho if they want a big warm bowl of something, but when I require comestible comfort and nutrition, I seek the dan dan.

Rich Smith is The Stranger's former News Editor. He writes about politics, books, and performance. You can read his poems at www.richsmithpoetry.com