The Szechuan eggplant (and sizzling noodles) at Bamboo Garden: recommended! Credit: ANTHONY KEO

The Szechuan eggplant (and sizzling noodles) at Bamboo Garden: recommended!

The Szechuan eggplant (and sizzling noodles) at Bamboo Garden: recommended! ANTHONY KEO

When it comes to Christmas Day traditions, I’m a fan of eating a big nap-inducing meal at a Chinese restaurant packed with Jews, Buddhists, Hindus, and atheists. My go-to place is Shanghai Garden, where there’s a line out the door and down the sidewalk, and people hold numbered cards that the hosts bring out to deal with the Christmas crush.

“Have you ever tried Bamboo Garden?” a friend recently asked when I told him about my Shanghai Garden tradition.

I had not. The friend told me Bamboo Garden is kosher, something Shanghai Garden—with its steaming bowls of pork-infused hot-and-sour soup and delicious salt-and-pepper squid—is not even trying to be. I don’t keep kosher, but if you do (or if you are vegetarian, vegan, or otherwise strict about putting meat in its place), then you should know about Bamboo Garden.

Eli Sanders was The Stranger's associate editor. His book, "While the City Slept," was a finalist for the Washington State Book Award and the Dayton Literary Peace Prize. He once did this and once won...