What’s being produced in the kitchen of chef Mark Fuller’s new West
Seattle venture gives your mind something to do along with your mouth.
The cold cioppino ($12), for example, is a miracle of a summer
soup: a crystal-clear tomato broth with a bit of basil oil and
half-immersed morsels of Dungeness crab, shrimp, mussel, and halibut.
How can something transparent be so flavorful and also so subtle? Why
is this the perfect medium for seafood? Think it over; eat it
up. (Spring Hill Restaurant and Bar, 4437 California Ave SW,
935-1075. 5:45 pm–midnight.)