Putting together the dish requires a large-scale production that takes days.

Putting together the dish requires a large-scale production that takes days. Brittany Wright

Maneki owner Jean Nakayama estimates that her International District restaurant (304 Sixth Ave S, 622-2631) serves hundreds of plates of its black cod collar miso a week, the equivalent of about 150 pounds’ worth. It’s one of my favorite dishes in town: rich, moist, blistered meat that’s sweet, salty, and just a little bit boozy.

The collar on a fish is located behind the head and runs all the way around the body, including the pectoral fins. The meat is cut from the clavicle, just behind the gills. The meat along the underside is especially oily and delicious…

Angela Garbes began her food writing career as a freelancer for The Stranger in 2006, joined the staff in 2014, and is now freelancing once again amid writing books; Like a Mother: A Feminist Journey Through...