Last week, Marc Jacobs and collaborator Ava Nirui launched Heaven, a new 2000s-heavy collection by Marc Jacobs. In many ways, it is a retreading of the brand's history and impact repackaged to fit "the now."
Here's how they describe it:
"Heaven is a polysexual collection that draws upon the impulse of the Marc Jacobs impulse: subversion, teenage daydreams, girls who are boys and boys who are girls. Those who are neither, the multifaceted characters who have made up the Marc Jacobs universe over the past 30 years and recontextualizes them for a new generation."
The collection has items priced from $45 to $395. There are oversized striped polos, pleated skirts, vests, mesh tops, embroidered raglan tees, barrettes, and pocket pants that the brand collaborated on with artists from around the world, both known and unknown.
Let's take a look at three of those artists:
The angsty, queer sexuality in Araki's films speaks to the "polysexual," rebellious, locked-in-your-room-listening-to-the-Cocteau-Twins teen dreaminess of Heaven. Of his films, Marc Jacobs told Dazed, "You just related so primitively to the content and the visual, the angst, the sexuality and everything about it." Araki's ubiquitousness in both the clothing and collectible parts of Heaven could spark a little Araki Renaissance, connecting the director to a younger generation. Hopefully some of his notoriously hard-to-find films will become less hard-to-find.
While not explicitly of the late '90s/Y2K-era, Nhozagri's pieces riff off both the era and angst the brand was aiming for: cute but menacing, sweet but threatening. The creatures look as if they're transforming—a little like the kind of teen Heaven is trying to speak to. Going through immense change while not quite arriving at the final destination.
It reminds me—in a good way—of graphic tees I'd see in JCPenney. Or the huge glittery stickers you could get in toy dispensers at movie theaters for 75 cents. The pairing of the quirky and cute frog with a sly reference to psychedelics is a totally teen thing to want to get away with.
Check out more of the clothing and collaborations here as well as the Shoichi Aoki-shot lookbook here.