(RESTAURANT) The name couldn't be stupider if it were "Beau Thai." The neighborhood is odd, distant, and homely. Still, after enjoying my first meal at Lake City Way's Thai One On, I immediately began planning my return. The pad thai is a near miracle, achieving the perfect blend of lightness and spice, and bearing almost nothing in common with the ketchup-heavy tangles dished out by other Thai joints. If you want to make the punny name a reality, there's a mod-styled bar in back. (Thai One On, 12343 Lake City Way NE, 362-6999.) DAVID SCHMADER