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Kelly O

Seattleites spend summer nights obsessively gazing west, watching as the sun works its way through a glowing, neon-colored sky to dip below the jagged edges of the Olympic Mountains. Well beyond those mountains is another world, Washington’s Olympic Coast.

Give yourself at least six hours to get there. It’s a rugged landscape of cliffs, headlands, and islands, dominated by the cold, crashing waves of the Pacific. Towering about the ocean are many sea stacks—columns of rock that have been eroded by years of relentless wind and waves into defiant, pointy crags. They serve as a reminder that while destruction is natural, so is resistance…

Angela Garbes began her food writing career as a freelancer for The Stranger in 2006, joined the staff in 2014, and is now freelancing once again amid writing books; Like a Mother: A Feminist Journey Through...