Beng Rajsombath uses the traditional method of mortar and pestle to make papaya salad. Kelly O
The first time I ate at Song Phang Kong, I was filled with the sort of excitement I had forgotten was possible. New restaurants open practically daily in Seattle, but as rents continue to climb, the existence of a place like Song Phang Kong—a humble four-table spot in the International District that serves huge portions of Laotian and Thai food, all of which cost just $8 a plate—seems unbelievable.
Song Phang Kong is entirely the domain of Beng Rajsombath, a tiny, vibrant woman whose presence fills every corner of the restaurant she opened last November. As soon as you take a seat, she will greet you with a smile, a bottle of water, and a can of Pepsi…
