My Armenian friend N, who lives in Germany but is traveling through the Anatolian plains of Turkey, sent this photo with the subject line “Don’t be such a…”

- Tee-hee!
(N and I met when we were barely adults—we get nostalgic with potty humor.)
N is revisiting an area his family fled over 100 years ago during the Armenian genocide of WWI. He—in his infinite wisdom—has returned for Armenian Remembrance Day. (Turkey still denies that that holocaust ever happened.)
Yesterday, N wrote:
Happy Easter my friend,
I hope you are well.
An update from this tiring and rewarding trip: For this Easter in Turkey, my Greek friend Dino and I found the remains of a 1,000 year old ruined Christian church and lit candles secretly and quickly while Dino chanted a Greek liturgical Easter refrain for the day and Armenian Remembrance day, which Is also today.
Kind of like 6th-century pagans sneaking a Dionysus tribute in a ruined temple.
When he finished the candles all blew out. It was very moving. We scuttled off quickly afterward as this was in the middle of a poor Muslim neighborhood, where we were afraid of the looks we were getting and the trouble we might get in.
I hope to talk with you soon-
n
That’s a hell of a way to celebrate Easter, N. Stay safe.

Thanks for sharing that, cool friend you have.
(and fwiw, obviously I should have sent my picture of the improperly positioned McDonald’s sign saying “Buttmilk Biscuits” to you instead of Dan…)
I’ve been to Kumbag! Also coincidentally on a road trip through Turkey. I still have a couple of souvenir hand wipes with “KUMBAG” printed in big letters on the package.
It seemed like a nice little town though, despite the name.