I was about to ask David "Cheeto" Chilson, Sara Moot, and Pete Pigott of Ballard's newish bar Olaf's to explain the Pussy Room I'd heard about, when I saw it—a hallway right off the bar made to look like an enormous cartoon vagina. The light at the end of the tunnel is a pinball room containing the world's only autographed Elvira pinball machine. The anatomically correct hallway was installed by the space's previous inhabitant, Copper Gate, famous for its vintage pinup photos and functional shower.

Olaf's, named after the mascot of the beloved, now-closed bar the Viking, serves classic bar food and drinks in ideal combinations. There's a can of Rainier with a side of bacon, plus hand-dipped, jalapeño-battered corn dogs with sriracha mayo—something like a corn dog inside a jalapeño popper, this was the realization of a dream I didn't know I had. This is no accident: Sara has an impressive résumé, including Le Gourmand and Persimmon. Cheeto worked at Stumbling Goat and Ma'ono. Most of Pete's experience is in flying planes, but he says he's done plenty of industry research—probably the kind he was doing at the Viking when he met Sara and Cheeto. "We should thank our fourth business partner, cans of Rainier," said Cheeto.