"Every bar should start with a good story," said Barry Rogel when I stepped into his and his brother Scott's new Ballard restaurant/bar, Brunswick & Hunt. B&H's ornate saloon-style bar was made by the Brunswick Company, the largest furniture manufacturer in the United States before WWI, and on its wall is a huge painting of a pastoral scene in which a hunter stands over a deer entitled The Hunt. Both were purchased in Winlock, Washington. "We bought the safe, too. We just have to get it out of there somehow!" said Scott Rogel. "And guess what the name of this building my brother bought is?" he said. "The W.E. Hunt Building."

Barry runs the DeLuxe Bar and Grill, and Scott runs the Athenian, but their vision for pricier Brunswick & Hunt is unlike either. Local farms will supply game, fish, and, as Barry said, "a cavalcade of vegetables" for a seasonal menu. Items you won't find elsewhere: a meat-and-vegetable Brunswick stew, which Barry describes as "a stew you can hang your hat on," and a cocktail called the Hunter, the only ingredient of which he will disclose is whiskey. Barry himself doesn't hunt, though his awesomely named chef Race Jones (formerly of the Matador chain) does, and neither has ever encountered a meat (or vegetable) they didn't like. recommended