- The Stranger
- Deep-fried plantains: I’ll fight you if you tell me they’re not good.
If the counter person at Bongos Cafe (6501 Aurora Ave N, 420-8548, bongosseattle.com) is sick of answering questions about the closing of Paseo, he sure doesn’t show it. In my visit, he fielded two separate volleys of Paseo-related questions from customers (yes, business at Bongos has increased since they closed; no, nobody’s sure what happened with them, although there’s a lot of gossip) with good cheer and understanding. But he’s quick to bring your attention back to the menu, which is exactly where it belongs.
Bongos serves delicious Caribbean food with zero pretensions, and the restaurant, tucked into a triangular plot of land on Aurora, just off Green Lake, is practically a theme-park ride. It’s a repurposed 76 station made into a Caribbean playground, with the help of a splash of colorful paint and a thorough reimagining of the space. The best part, obviously, is the sandpit where the gas pumps used to be; even on the dreariest Northwest winter day, the patio furniture and bright plastic shovels and buckets give the restaurant a playful, beachy vibe…