Sometimes the most decadent and satisfying culinary experiences are
the ones that bypass sophistication—delicate flavors, expert
plating, wine pairings—to hit the sweet spot in your frontal lobe
where the quotidian flavors and textures that speak to childhood
reside. As a kid growing up in Katy, Texas, chicken-fried steak day in
the lunchroom came twice a week, and I reminisce more than is probably
healthy about using a doughy roll to sop up the final globs of country
gravy that clung to my hard plastic tray (not to mention about the joy
of washing down spoonfuls of mealy mashed potatoes with chocolate
milk). I still thoroughly relish each bite of Banquet’s $3 TV-dinner
version of the dish, which speaks to the sophistication of my palate,
sure, but I know a good—or a cruddy—chicken-fried steak
when I meet one. I’m Texan. A certain percentage of my blood is gravy,
so if CFS is on a menu, dang if I ain’t gettin’ it. Gotta keep the
levels up.
When I moved to the Northwest in 2003, I was pretty sure I wouldn’t
find anything that would measure up to the caliber of the chicken-fried
steak in Texas. My assumption was quickly dispelled at the 5 Point
Cafe (415 Cedar St, 448-9993), which became the site of frequent
Steak ‘n’ Scotch™ lunches. The chicken-fried steak at the 5 Point
($9.99) is beautiful—mountainous mashed potatoes on the side,
thick batter, and perfectly mealy, not-too-stringy meat that’s as big
as a large-size human hand, often flopping over the edge of the plate.
What makes the dish here so thoroughly enjoyable isn’t just the sloppy,
generously proportioned nature of the CFS itself, but the comfort the
mild seediness of the 5 Point brings at midday, when it is bathed in
the full glory of a half-sunny, half-rainy, all-telling Seattle light.
Sandwiched between seasoned adults who’re drowning their sorrows or
feeding their livers’ habits, one can’t help but feel contemplative.
Every bite counts. Chew slowly.
The second place in Seattle that excels along these same lines is,
not surprisingly, beloved Lower Queen Anne dive the Mecca Cafe (526 Queen Anne Ave N, 285-9728). One of the city’s oldest bars and
diners (and formerly owned by the geniuses of CFS at the 5 Point),
Mecca has got comfort food and stiff drinks down to a science. Sliding
into a booth and tucking into the chicken-fried steak ($9.84) is, in my
humble opinion, one of the best dining experiences Seattle has to
offer. Again, the CFS is served with near carelessness (much like the
lunch lady’s presentation) and is accompanied by the creamiest mashed
potatoes in the city. You even have your choice of gravy! Country?
Sausage? Brown? Turkey? Is there a bad answer? No (although I always
pick the country variety). The steak’s crust is thick and crisp and
floury, and the aforementioned gravy is rarely overpoured, one of the
few actions that can ruin a good chicken-fried steak via uncrispifying
the crust. Like rainbows or hugs, gravy is one of those things in life
that is best experienced somewhat sparingly, if only so that you
realize what a wonder it is. Mecca knows this.
One place that doesn’t know this, sadly, is Linda’s Tavern on Capitol Hill (707 E Pine St, 325-1220). There’s simply
nothing decent about Linda’s chicken-fried steak. It’s not salty
enough. The crust is crumbly and unflavored. The vegetables and
potatoes alongside the steak are watery and canned tasting. There is no
heft or soul to it whatsoever. One can, and should, find better options
in the frozen aisle at QFC. At Roxy’s Diner in Fremont (462 N
35th St, 632-3963), the breakfast CFS and eggs is enough to feed at
least three. The eggs (I got mine scrambled) were buttery and
appropriately light, providing a great foil to the well-battered steak
exterior. Roxy’s does, however, commit the sin of overgravying, and the
steak itself was a workout to cut.
It left me pining for my very most favoritest CFS in Seattle, that
of Cyndy’s House of Pancakes (10507 Aurora Ave N, 522-5100).
Cyndy’s is a time capsule of early ’60s rec-room glory, all red
Naugahyde booths and wood paneling. If you have the good fortune to sit
at one of the wing-backed bar chairs, you’ll see the action in the
kitchen, plus you can stare at the fish tank behind the counter.
Cyndy’s menu (which features a Question of the Day; the answer comes
from your server) is typewriter-typed on flimsy off-white paper. Its
version of the classic ($10.95) is not to be missed: Always tender,
always perfectly portioned, the CFS at Cyndy’s is protected by a crisp,
pankoesque breading and is served with the fluffiest biscuits and best
greasy-spoon eggs one could imagine. It is completely delicious and
always served with its own Question of Every Day: “Anything else,
honey?”
Speaking of service, if Mae’s Phinney Ridge Cafe (6412
Phinney Ave N, 782-1222) had shown me just a dollop of kindness, I
would have enjoyed the crumbly, savory crispness of that
establishment’s chicken-fried steak ($10.95) much more. I was eating
alone and felt rushed by the brusque server, and one thing you don’t
want is to cram a meal like that down your hole at top speed.
Conversely, kudos to Julia’s (1825 Queen Anne Ave N, 282-0680;
300 Broadway E, 680-1818; and 4401 Wallingford Ave N, 633-1175) for its
version ($11.95)—available at breakfast only—and also to
the U-District’s venerable Blue Onion Bistro (5801 Roosevelt Way
NE, 729-0579), whose praises are sung by many, including me. I’m sure
that you, dear reader, have a favorite chicken-fried steak of your own.
To this, I say: Bring it! I’m not planning on curbing my intake anytime
soon. My heart can take the cholesterol. I’m from Texas.
Your Ganny knows how to make the best chicken fried steak, gravy, and best mashed potatoes you ever tasted. This meal has been known to make grown men swoon. Why don’t you ask her sometime so you and Dave can enjoy a meal by the home fire. (Hopefully, not one started in the kitchen)!