I’ve long held a deep (and slightly bitter) belief that my people, the Filipinos, are the “forgotten Asians”—especially when it comes to food. Filipino food is like the Rodney Dangerfield of Asian cuisine. In Seattle there is an abundance of Chinese, Thai, Japanese, Vietnamese, and Korean restaurants, but except for Beacon Hill’s Kusina Filipina (3201 Beacon Ave S, 322-9433), a noticeable dearth of Filipino restaurants. Why?
Here’s my best explanation: When friends ask me where to get good Filipino food, I invite them to my parent’s house. Filipino food comes from a deeply personal style of cooking, takes a lot of time (think stews, braising) and effort (sauces made by pounding shrimp heads to a pulp) to cook, and—trust me—it just tastes better when cooked by family and friends and enjoyed in the warmth of someone’s home.
But it is possible for Filipino restaurants to succeed. Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan, owners of New York stalwart Cendrillon, understand and illustrate the specificity of Filipino food beautifully in Memories of Philippine Kitchens, their new book filled with history, recipes, methods, and photographs. For the Seattle launch of the book, Ovio Bistro (4752 California Ave SW, 935-1774, www.oviobistro.com) will host a $45 prix-fixe, five-course Filipino dinner on Tuesday, February 27, at 6:30 p.m. Do yourself a favor and go.
